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On a cold winters night, the allure of the night train is strong. You climb aboard to be whisked off to your destination as you sleep. That destination this time is Rovaniemi, you step on the aptly names Santa Express and are whisked off from Helsinki to Rovaniemi on the sleeper train.
There is always something special about taking a sleeper train, and this one is no different. The Helsinki-Rovaniemi train runs up to 3 times a week in peak season from Helsinki to Rovaniemi, as well as twice a week from Helsinki to Kolari.
The Train pulls away from Helsinki around 11 pm and you arrive above the arctic circle just after 11 am, a whole 12 hours on the train. This was definitely not the smoothest of rides but the steady rock certainly gathers momentum and you travel north, leaving the city lights behind you. Slowly you climb north to a landscape of snow capped trees and ice covered lakes. The romance of train travel certainly hasn’t left.
The small but cosy cabins are comfortable for 2 for 12 hours, in the upper level cabins the rooms also have an ensuite shower, toilet and sink. This is always a little luxury on a night train. Otherwise, you get a small sink in your cabin and a shared bathroom down the corridor. There is also an option to book a seat for the night. However, for the additional few euro, I would recommend treating yourself to an upper deck room on the Helsinki-Rovaniemi Night Train.
How to Book Tickets?
We booked tickets directly on the VR website:
https://www.vr.fi/en/night-trains
Booking the tickets on the night train is easy. The VR website is both in Finnish and English so it is easy to navigate, there is also an app for iPhone and Android. You can book 9 months in advance and tickets start at €49 one way. This is considerably cheaper than the sleeper trains in the UK.
Due to COVID, tickets are not been sold for single sleeping berths in shared cabins, which means the cabin is always used by only you and your travel companions. The price is cabin-specific and not dependent on the number of passengers. Making them extremely good value for money compared to the cost of the Caledonian Sleeper.
What to eat on the Helsinki-Rovaniemi Night Train
The buffet car on the Helsinki-Rovaniemi Sleeper Train was well stocked and reasonably priced. Since you board the train around 11pm an evening meal is not needed. I find that eating before you arrive allows you the best option, especially if you have any dietary preferences. That said, breakfast on the train is a luxury I will always indulge in.
Costs:
€7.50* Vegan Porridge with berries, Orange Juice and a tea/coffee
€7.90* All Day breakfast
*Correct at time of publish 2023
If you do not want to eat in the restaurant car, you can order selected meals for your cabin. Just ask the conductor and they will be able to advise you on this.
Would I recommend the Night Train?
Overall I would say yes, taking the sleeper train is always an experience. For speed, you can fly. But if you have the time then why not take the train. It is eco friendly and you wake up at your destination. My only criticism is that this train was loud, pulling up at 20+ stops throughout the night can disturb your sleep even with earplugs in. I travelled as a couple in mid-November and the train was not busy, I can imagine for the month of December it would be very busy. Book in advance, a cabin and you’ll have a journey you will not forget. There is something magical about waking up in the Arctic, even if you’re an adult.
